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Schleswig-Holstein is all about location. It is a Land made by the forces around it: The former is realized as fine beaches and marram-grass dunes, candy-striped lighthouses, commercial ports on deep fjords, vast skyscapes and changeable weather.
The latter reveals itself as a region that feels distinctly Nordic. If anything, Schleswig-Holstein and neighbouring city-state Hamburg have a Scandinavian liberalism to make land-locked southerners appear prudish. The air of a separate country is compounded by a predominantly fish diet and a local dialect akin to Dutch, Plattdeutsch, that is almost as impenetrable to most Germans as it is to foreigners.
As ever, this distinct character was shaped by history. The peninsula was under Danish rule from the fifteenth century until the mids, when nationalist fervour inspired calls for independence among its German-speaking population.
This posed the Schleswig-Holstein Question, which vexed some of the finest diplomatic minds in Europe. As British prime minister Lord Palmerston is said to have despaired: The first was Prince Albert, and he is dead; the second is a German professor, and he is in an asylum; and the third was myself, and I have forgotten it. Nowadays, Schleswig-Holstein is less political poser than bucolic backwater. Notwithstanding the Land capital Kiel , a brusque, working port, it is free of urban development, with its Baltic coast notched by fjords, its west coast wind-blown and wild, and everywhere canopied by colour-wash skyscapes that have long captivated artists such as Emil Nolde.
Sure, the one-time city-state has a tale as rich and complex as any plotline by local son Thomas Mann, yet at the core of its appeal is nothing more complicated than one of the most enigmatic old towns in Germany, with a heritage and sense of cultural worth handed down from its time as the head of the medieval Hanseatic League, the first pan-European superpower. Powder beaches have transformed the North Frisian islands off the west coast into a treasured national playground, even though they are largely overlooked by foreigners in the stampede south.